Where desert meets the stars

The voyage north from Valparaíso is a journey of light and story – where land meets ocean, ancient cultures whisper through the landscape, and the night sky sparkles in infinite clarity. Along Chile and Peru’s Pacific coast, every horizon reveals a new contrast: golden deserts next to deep blue waters, timeless traditions beside modern coastal life, and star-filled skies so vivid they seem close enough to touch.

Your adventure begins in Valparaíso, a UNESCO World Heritage city and one of South America’s most colorful ports. Here, steep funicular railways climb from the sea up to hills painted with murals, music fills the air, and the Pacific glitters below. From this city of art and energy, your boutique expedition ship sets sail for nine unforgettable nights – a voyage through light, landscape, and legend.

As SH Vega leaves Valparaíso behind, the coast opens into an ever-changing panorama of cliffs, bays, and fishing towns. The first call is at Coquimbo and La Serena, where the sun-baked plains begins to press closer to the sea. La Serena’s colonial heart beats in wide, palm-lined avenues, elegant churches, and lively plazas where the scent of papayas and coffee drifts through the air. Nearby, the fertile Elqui Valley winds inland – a lush ribbon of vineyards and orchards against a backdrop of arid mountains. Wander through markets bright with woven textiles and copper crafts, or visit a distillery to sample fresh Pisco – Chile’s national spirit – straight from the source.

In the surrounding hills, petroglyphs carved into the stone bear witness to ancient peoples who once navigated by the same stars that shine overhead tonight. As evening falls, you return to your ship, where the stargazing deck transforms into a floating observatory. Under skies unspoiled by city lights, astronomers Thomas Esposito and James de Buizer from the SETI Institute guide you through constellations, planets, and galaxies, turning the vastness above into a living map of wonder.

The next days carry you north to Antofagasta, gateway to the Atacama Desert – one of the driest and most mysterious landscapes on Earth. Here, vast salt plains stretch to the horizon, broken by volcanoes that glow rose-gold at dusk. In Valle de la Luna – the Valley of the Moon – wind and time have sculpted a world of ridges and craters that shimmer in pinks and silvers as the sun sets. Few places feel so otherworldly, and as twilight deepens, the air itself seems to hum with stillness.

Shallow lagoons lie hidden among the salt flats, their mirror-like surfaces reflecting the sky. Flamingos feed gracefully in the fading light, their silhouettes etched against the horizon. For those seeking a deeper connection, you may choose to take part in a Pachamama ceremony – a traditional Andean ritual that offers thanks to the Earth. Simple yet profound, it is a reminder that this land, for all its desolation, is alive and sacred.

As SH Vega continues northward, the air grows warmer and the desert softens into rolling dunes. Soon you reach Arica, Chile’s northernmost city – a meeting place of history, culture, and sunlight. Here, colonial buildings line broad streets where palm trees sway, and the atmosphere hums with a blend of coastal life and vibrant color. Visit the elegant San Marcos Cathedral, designed by Gustave Eiffel, or gaze upon the geoglyphs of Lluta Valley, enormous figures drawn across the hillsides by ancient hands, visible only from above.

The landscape here holds its secrets close. At the Museo de Sitio Colón, you’ll come face to face with mummies older than those of Egypt, preserved naturally by the dry air. In the nearby wetlands, flamingos and herons gather in bright, rippling flocks, bringing color and life to this frontier between sand and sea.

Crossing the border into Peru, your voyage enters a new chapter – a land shaped by volcanoes, conquistadors, and ancient empires. The port of Matarani opens the gateway to Arequipa, known as the "White City" for its dazzling architecture carved from pale volcanic stone. Beneath the shadow of El Misti Volcano, Arequipa gleams like a mirage.

Wander through the Santa Catalina Convent, a vast complex of cloisters, plazas, and blue-and-ochre courtyards that feel frozen in time. The convent tells a story of devotion, artistry, and endurance, and its silence feels almost tangible. Beyond the city, the Mejía Lagoons stretch out – a network of wetlands alive with flamingos, ibises, and migratory birds. Their pink and white plumage ripples like brushstrokes across the shimmering water.

The final chapter of your voyage unfolds at the Paracas Peninsula, one of Peru’s most extraordinary coastal landscapes. Here, golden dunes sweep into red-sand beaches, and the cliffs of Paracas National Reserve fall away to turquoise seas filled with wildlife. Known as the "Galápagos of Peru," this region is a sanctuary for countless species – a living testament to the richness of the Humboldt Current that flows along these shores.

Take a speedboat to the Ballestas Islands, where rocky arches and caves echo with the calls of thousands of seabirds. Humboldt penguins shuffle along the rocks, sea lions bask in the sun, and cormorants dive from the cliffs in graceful arcs. The sight, sound, and scent of this amazing world create an unforgettable scene of wild beauty.

For an entirely different perspective, take to the skies on an optional helicopter flight over the Nazca Lines. Etched across the land are enormous figures – a hummingbird, a spider, a monkey – whose meaning has been lost to time. As you gaze down, it’s impossible not to feel awe at the mystery and mastery of the people who created them.

Back on land, adventure continues across the shifting sands of Paracas National Reserve, where dune buggies trace curving paths through the sand and the air smells faintly of salt and sun-warmed stone. Later, as the ship sets sail once more, you return to comfort and conversation aboard SH Vega. Dinner celebrates the flavors of Peru – zesty seafood, rich stews, and signature Pisco cocktails – shared beneath the endless starlit sky.

Your voyage concludes in Callao, gateway to Lima, where colonial charm and modern creativity blend effortlessly. Stroll through Lima’s historic centre, a UNESCO World Heritage site, where ornate balconies and grand churches tell stories of the city’s layered past. In Barranco, Lima’s bohemian district, street art brightens old mansions, and live music drifts from open doors as the Pacific breeze moves through the palms.

Lima is also the gastronomic heart of South America, and home to some of the world’s most acclaimed restaurants. Whether you’re enjoying a ceviche lunch overlooking the ocean or a tasting menu crafted by one of Peru’s celebrated chefs, every meal here is a reflection of land, sea, and tradition.

For many, the journey continues inland with an optional extension to Machu Picchu. High in the Andes, where the air thins and mist curls through green terraces, the lost citadel emerges – a masterpiece of stone and silence. To stand there, with the peaks rising through cloud around you, is to feel the pulse of an ancient world still alive in the heart of the mountains.

Sailing north from Valparaíso to Callao, the Pacific reveals its quieter mysteries: deserts that breathe heat and silence, cultures written in stone and sand, and skies so clear they seem to lift the soul.

Aboard SH Vega, discovery unfolds with the same spirit of grace and adventure. Zodiacs bring you close to islands teeming with seabirds and sea lions, while guided excursions open gateways to ancient civilizations and timeless landscapes. On board, lectures and conversations give meaning to every horizon, while dining inspired by Peru’s rich flavors turns each evening into a celebration.

As with all true expeditions, unexpected moments are likely to become the memories you treasure most – a dolphin leaping at dawn, the first glimpse of the Nazca Lines from above, a night so full of stars the sky feels infinite. Sailing these northern waters means becoming part of the timeless conversation between land and sea. It’s a voyage that doesn’t just carry you along the coast – it carries you into the heart of wonder itself.