What drives someone to return again and again to the ends of the Earth? For Nicki D’Souza, it’s not just the thrill of exploration – it’s the magic of nature, the stories of people, and the ever-changing rhythms of remote landscapes. We caught up with Nicki to talk bucket lists, polar bears, unforgettable encounters, and more…
"I ended up on an expedition ship completely by chance, and I was immediately hooked."
"You never just see the Northern Lights – you feel them!"
Hi Nicki! You’ve spent decades at sea. What keeps the fire burning?
Nicki: New itineraries, new exciting places to visit. Even coming back to the same areas, nature is ever-changing, so you always see or experience something different!
Where did your passion for this life begin?
Nicki: My first long-distance holiday in Thailand definitely changed something for me. I met travelers with incredible stories. Then, completely by chance, I ended up on an expedition ship for my first role. I was immediately hooked!
What led you to become an Expedition Leader?
Nicki: It was a natural fit. I’ve always been organized and good at juggling multiple tasks, and I’ve got a deep interest in the places we go. The logistics, the destinations – it all came together, and felt like a natural step for me.
You’ve explored everywhere from polar extremes to tropical outposts – do you still have a travel bucket list?
Nicki: Yes! My bucket list gets longer and longer when I talk to our guests. They’re well-travelled and tell me about the places they’ve been, and it’s clear there’s still so much to explore!
Arctic encounters
Tell us what makes the Iceland–Greenland voyage so special.
Nicki: We head into North-East Greenland, which is incredibly remote and rarely visited. The scenery is incredible – stunning fjords, sheer mountains, and the chance of seeing polar bears. Plus, adding a stay in Iceland – one of the most amazing countries – before or after makes it even more spectacular.
What’s it like to explore Scoresby Sund?
Nicki: The landscape is absolutely breathtaking. This, paired with the thrill of seeking the ever-elusive polar bear, and seeing giant icebergs floating effortlessly in the fjords, makes it truly unforgettable.
You also visit Ittoqqortoormiit. What’s the community like?
Nicki: Greenlanders are friendly, though often shy. They’re always happy to answer questions, but language differences can make deeper conversations a bit challenging.
How do guests respond to kayaking among icebergs?
Nicki: They absolutely love it! It’s peaceful, silent, and you feel far removed from the hustle and bustle of life. It’s one of those rare moments where everything else disappears.
Culture, nature, wonder
What are some highlights of the Canadian Arctic and Northern Lights cruise?
Nicki: Hopefully polar bears and the Northern Lights. While it’s never guaranteed, there is a very good chance of seeing the Northern Lights. They’re never the same – they always come in different shapes and colors – and it’s absolutely magical.
Can you tell us more about your experiences with the Northern Lights?
Nicki: Honestly, seeing them never gets old. No matter how many times you witness the Northern Lights, they still manage to take your breath away. It's never the same show twice – sometimes subtle and ghostlike, other times bold and electrifying. In Iceland, they say, "The green lady is dancing in the night sky." It’s such a fitting description. There’s something otherworldly about the way the lights move – graceful, mysterious, alive. You never just see the Northern Lights – you feel them!
What’s the experience like at Torngat Mountains National Park?
Nicki: It’s stunning. There are both black bears and polar bears in the area, and the fjords are especially beautiful in autumn, lit up with colors!
And what about L’Anse aux Meadows?
Nicki: Absolutely fascinating! You’re walking right beside the remains of the earliest Viking settlements. The reconstructed houses help you picture how the Vikings lived – it really brings history to life.
How do guests respond to the cultural elements of these trips?
Nicki: Cultural encounters spark a lot of questions and conversations onboard. Guests often want to learn more – whether it’s about throat singing, traditional carving, or Greenlandic politics and identity. We've had Inuit guides on board, and guests were fascinated by their lives in these remote communities.
Behind the Scenes
What’s been your most unforgettable wildlife encounter?
Nicki: Last year we saw narwhals in the Canadian Arctic. That was a very special moment.
What’s one thing Arctic travelers often forget to pack – but really shouldn’t?
Nicki: Cameras. Most guests only have smartphones, which aren’t able to capture wildlife in this region very well, because of the distance. Binoculars are also essential.
Is there a moment you’ve thought, “I can’t believe this is my job”?
Nicki: This job has taken me to places I hadn’t even heard of before, and now I know them intimately. And the wildlife – it’s like stepping into the pages of National Geographic. There are days when I look around and think, how did I get so lucky? To witness these wonders, to share them with others, and to keep learning from the places and people we visit – it’s a privilege I never take for granted.
What do you hope guests take away from their expedition?
Nicki: That their dream came true. For many, these trips have been on their bucket list for years, maybe decades. I hope they leave feeling fulfilled, inspired, and forever changed by what they’ve seen and experienced. More than that, I want them to understand how fragile our planet is. The beauty out here is breathtaking – but it’s also vulnerable. I hope they return with a deeper appreciation and a desire to protect what they’ve seen. Even small changes make a difference. If they leave with wonder in their hearts and a sense of responsibility, then we've done something meaningful.
Southern Latitudes and Solar Eclipses
What stood out for you in South America last year?
Nicki: That even between busy ports, there’s still so much wildlife – whether it’s along the coast or inland. It’s a perfect mix of historic cities, landscapes, and culture.
How does South America compare with other continents?
Nicki: It’s intense. The landscapes, the history, and the people all stand out. Few places on Earth pack so much diversity into a single continent. It’s a real fusion of natural and human history.
Tell us about leading the eclipse voyage.
Nicki: The buzz and excitement beforehand was incredible. Many of the guests were eclipse chasers – some even had T-shirts listing how many they’d seen. And then the eclipse itself… it was unforgettable!
The Human Connection
How do you incorporate environmental education into your voyages?
Nicki: We have a great citizen science program on board our ships, as well as a really strong lecture series. It’s all designed to inform and raise awareness.
How do you build relationships with local communities?
Nicki: We visit remote villages where local communities welcome us with cultural demonstrations, storytelling, music, and food. These visits are usually guided by local hosts, offering guests a chance to see daily life through the eyes of the people who live there. It’s about more than sightseeing. It’s about gaining a deeper understanding of Arctic life – its challenges, resilience, traditions, and evolving identity. We hope guests leave with fewer misconceptions and greater respect for these communities. There’s a lot of strength and beauty in the way people adapt to such remote and often harsh environments. Ultimately, I hope guests see the Arctic not just as a destination, but as a home for people with rich cultures and powerful stories.
What challenges do you face leading in remote areas?
Nicki: One of the biggest challenges is communication and coordination with local communities. In many remote areas, access to technology is limited, and the pace of life is very different. The sense of urgency we’re used to doesn’t always align with local rhythms, and that can require a lot of patience and flexibility. Organizing larger groups also comes with its own set of hurdles – especially when infrastructure is minimal or timing isn’t precise. Things like timekeeping or transportation logistics often need adjusting on the fly.
How do you keep guests engaged throughout a voyage?
Nicki: It starts with curiosity and connection. I make a point to be present – on deck, on shore, and during meals – so guests feel comfortable asking questions, sharing thoughts, or just chatting. These informal moments often spark some of our most meaningful conversations.
What advice do you have for aspiring Expedition Leaders?
Nicki: Be endlessly curious and deeply adaptable. You need to enjoy working with people just as much as you enjoy exploring places. You need to thrive in unpredictable conditions, be able to think on your feet, and wear many hats. And always stay open to learning – there’s no end to it!
What do you enjoy most about your job?
Nicki: Seeing the look on guests’ faces when they encounter some of the incredible wonders we visit. That moment when they finally arrive in a place they’ve imagined for so long – and reality hits them. It’s truly magical!